Below
is article by Sarah Marshall in independent.ie on February 1 2019 6:54 am
8
ways to see London in a new light: From pints with the mob to secret pub tours.
An innovative new city break specialist offers the chance to sample some of
London's most unusual experiences
Standing
by the kerb, a menacing figure strokes the knuckleduster on his tattooed left
hand, eyebrows furrowing as he glances in my direction.
"You
lookin' fer me?" he asks in a low, gravelly voice, sending rivers of sweat
down the back of my neck.
Under
any other circumstances, I'd quickly scuttle away, but today I have to stay
put, because this hard-nosed mobster is the very person I've planned to meet.
My
path to Mickey Goldtooth had been paved some 48 hours earlier, when, like something
out of John le Carre novel, a rather strange but exciting email landed in my
inbox. It instructed me to present myself at 10am on a street corner in
London's Liverpool Street and look for the man with a black suit and gold
teeth.
That
was pretty much it.
The
'Top Secret Dossier' - cleverly designed to resembled classified government
papers - is all part of the capital's newest tourism experience. These Mystery
Days, masterminded by city break specialists MakeMyDay, are the first of their
kind and promise surprise and intrigue at every turn.
I'd
signed up to the service with no idea what to expect.
"That's
the whole point," says MakeMyDay founder and award-winning travel writer
Nick Boulos, who has personally handpicked and tried and tested each experience.
"It's
rare as adults to be truly surprised. I want to inject that childlike sense of
fun and exploration back into peoples' lives, while also offering urban
adventures most people don't even know are possible."
Packages
start from £69/€79 and the options are impressive - everything from walking,
cycling and food tours, to helicopter trips and horse rides.
I've
opted for the Silver package, and after completing a short questionnaire on my
likes and dislikes, any health considerations, physical limitations and
phobias, it's time to expect the unexpected.
My
first urban adventure is a mobster tour of the East End, led by two real life
gangsters, including Mickey. Together, we tour the streets of Bethnal Green and
Whitechapel and enter a world few see.
Over
a drink in The Blind Beggar pub, where Ronnie Kray famously murdered George
Cornell in 1966, Mickey rummages in his pocket and produces a frayed black and
white picture.
"That's
me, that is," he says, pointing proudly to the toddler sat on the knee of
man - a man who happens to be Ronnie Kray himself.
What
follows is two fascinating and, at times, hilarious hours filled with tales of
London's murky underworld, famous figures like Eric the Red, and first-hand accounts
of a life spent on the fringes of society.
It
certainly gives me a lot to think about as I make my way to the next mysterious
appointment. The instructions in the dossier are a little baffling, simply
telling me to head to Victoria Coach Station.
But
it soon becomes clear. While weary travellers around me battle with suitcases
to board National Express coaches to Doncaster and Dundee, I breeze through and
hop aboard my majestic chariot - an original red Routemaster bus.
These
iconic double-deckers first took to the streets of London in the 1950s, and now
only a handful continue to operate. But this isn't just any old bus ride.
Somewhere along Buckingham Palace Road, my city tour with a difference takes a
rather indulgent turn as champagne afternoon tea is served.
Sat
on the top deck, with London's most famous landmarks on show in all their
glory, I nibble on delicate sandwiches and sweet macaroons, all washed down
with flutes filled with bubbles.
Fortunately,
my final surprise of the day provides an opportunity to walk off some of the
excess. A short Tube ride takes me to St. Paul's, where a small group has
gathered by the turnstiles. I gingerly join them, intrigued as to what the next
mini adventure will entail.
"You
are about to discover the best, most beautiful, historic and cosy pubs this
great city has to offer," announces local enthusiast Vic, a man who has
suffered greatly for his art by drinking in more than 40 nearby establishments,
in order to select the best five.
With
real theatrical flair, Vic brings the past vividly to life as we stroll between
gin palaces and blink-and-miss-them Victorian pubs, which could almost be
lifted straight out of a Dickens book. But it isn't only the pubs that are a
revelation; delicious and rare beverages, from vanilla-infused gin to chocolate
stout and floral ales (half pints, of course), have been stocked exclusively
for the tour.
Strolling
down a lantern-lit alley, half expecting Mickey Goldtooth to suddenly emerge
from the shadows, I reach my final spot.
The
door of discreet drinking den Ye Olde Mitre creaks as I venture inside.
The
first pint was pulled here in 1546 for the servants of the Bishop of Ely,
although the clientele has changed somewhat over the centuries.
Something
peculiar catches my eye in the corner of the room and Vic steps in to explain.
"That's the petrified remains of a cherry tree that someone quite famous
once danced around," he smirks. "It's said that Queen Elizabeth I got
drunk in here and got a little carried away..."
If
only tree trunks could talk. I stare at the block of wood, amazed that such
discoveries and pieces of history are hidden in such plain sight. In the space
of 24 hours I've learned to see my city in a whole new light. And that is the
biggest surprise of all.
London like
never before
Nick
Boulos, founder of MakeMyDay, picks his favourite London experiences with a
difference.
1.
Penny for your
thoughts
Thrilling, and
just a tad terrifying, a ride around the capital on a penny-farthing certainly
beats a 'Boris' bike. Under the expert guidance of the country's leading
enthusiast of these iconic bikes - they were all the rage in the late 1800s -
this is a rare opportunity to experience one of London's most novel modes of
transport. The experience starts with a nice and gentle training session in one
of London's prettiest squares, before a quick pedal down Piccadilly to
Trafalgar Square, causing heads to turn all the way.
2. Fake news!
You'll
split your sides on this rib-tickling riverside walking tour from the steps of
St. Paul's Cathedral to the South Bank. Led by a professional comedian, there
are gags and tall tales a plenty as you explore landmarks, secret side streets
and some of the city's most eclectic architecture. Prepare to laugh out loud
but don't believe a single word of it - every fact and anecdote is a big, fat
lie.
3. Icons
London
is home to some of the most renowned cultural institutions in the world, but
visiting them can often be daunting and overwhelming. MakeMyDay's series of
in-depth tours, to places such as the Tower of London and the British Museum,
are led by experts and certified guides. Why not tour The National Gallery with
a jobbing artist who will help you create your own version of one of its most
famous pieces? Or alternatively enjoy an exclusive peek at Westminster Abbey.
4. Go forage
It
may be home to more than eight million people, but London still has its wild
and untamed corners. This grassroots experience takes you to a hushed oasis, a
stone's throw from the hustle and bustle, where a forager reveals the array of
edible plants and herbs that grow in the heart of the city. With some expert
help, you'll pick your own salad with ingredients you never even knew existed.
Think everything from wild rocket and edible nettles, to black mulberries and
sweet chestnuts.
5. Law &
Order
Punishments
have been dished out at this spot since the 16th century, so it's fair to say
the Old Bailey has a story or two to tell. Many are revealed on this
fascinating tour led by a former newspaper journalist who reported on trials
here for 30 years. Not only will you hear all about the British legal system
and the grisly early capital punishments, but you'll also have the opportunity
to visit one of the original cells before watching a real trial in action.
How
to do it
All experiences can
be booked at MakeMyDay (0208 895 6828; makemyday.travel). Bespoke Mystery Days
start from £69pp/€79.
No comments:
Post a Comment